Spessartite Jewelry in Bangkok

Spessartite is the orange garnet, a warm, glowing stone that runs from bright tangerine to reddish orange and deep cinnamon. The most vivid stones, known as Mandarin garnet, have a pure orange color that few other gems can match. It is bright, durable and almost never treated, and it looks wonderful in both silver and gold. We set natural spessartite in 925 sterling silver and solid gold at our studio on Sukhumvit 71, Bangkok.

This page covers what spessartite is, Mandarin garnet, how it compares with other orange gems, how to wear and care for it, what makes a good stone, where it comes from, how to see the stones at our shop, and how to order in Bangkok or anywhere in Thailand.

What spessartite is

Spessartite, also spelled spessartine, is a manganese aluminum garnet. It belongs to the same family as the classic red garnet, but manganese gives it an orange color instead of red. A little iron in the stone pushes the color toward red or brown, so the purest orange stones are the ones with the least iron.

The name comes from the Spessart hills in Germany, where the mineral was first described. For a long time gem quality spessartite was a collector’s stone, rare and usually small. That changed in the 1990s, when bright orange stones were found in Namibia and later in Nigeria, and spessartite became a stone that jewelers could actually use.

Spessartite has a high refractive index, so a well cut stone is very bright and lively. It is almost never treated, and its color is natural and stable. Every stone we set is natural, spessartite included, and if a stone has had any treatment we tell you before you order.

Spessartite facts at a glance

• Color: tangerine orange, yellowish orange, reddish orange and cinnamon brown
• Hardness: 7 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale
• Family: garnet; the brightest orange is called Mandarin garnet
• Treatment: almost never treated
• Best for: rings, pendants, earrings and bracelets
• Care: warm soapy water and a soft brush
• Price: depends on the quality and carat you choose; we quote before you order

Mandarin garnet

Mandarin garnet is a trade name, not a separate mineral. It is used for spessartite with a vivid, pure orange color, like the skin of a mandarin orange. The name was first used for the stones found in the Kunene region of northern Namibia in the early 1990s. Nigerian stones of the same bright color are also sold as Mandarin garnet.

These stones are the top of the spessartite range. Stones with more red or brown are lovely too, with a warm sunset or cinnamon look, and they cost less.

Spessartite and other orange gems

Orange sapphire is harder at 9 on the Mohs scale and usually costs more. Most orange sapphire is heated, while spessartite is almost always untreated. See our sapphire page for more.

Citrine can be orange too, especially the deep Madeira color. It is quartz, 7 on the Mohs scale, with less brilliance and a lower price than spessartite.

Fire opal has a similar orange body color but is much softer and needs gentle wear. Spessartite is far better for a ring worn every day.

Hessonite is an orange to brownish grossular garnet, another member of the same family. It has a softer, honey look, while spessartite is brighter.

How to wear and care for spessartite

At 7 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale and with no cleavage, spessartite is suitable for daily rings, pendants and earrings. Like any garnet it can chip on a hard knock, so take your ring off for the gym, sport and heavy work, and choose a protective setting for a ring you wear all the time.

Clean it in warm soapy water with a soft brush, then rinse and dry. Avoid sudden changes of temperature and keep it away from harsh chemicals. Store it apart from diamonds and sapphires to avoid scratches. If it ever needs a polish or a check of the setting, bring it to our shop. Maintenance is free on jewelry we made.

What makes a good spessartite

Color comes first. The most valued stones are a vivid pure orange, the Mandarin color, with no brown. Reddish orange stones come next, and brownish cinnamon stones cost the least.

Clarity varies. Many spessartites carry small inclusions, sometimes in wavy patterns. A stone that looks clean to the eye is worth more, and a very clean bright orange stone is uncommon.

Cut shows off the brilliance. A well cut spessartite is one of the brightest colored stones there is, full of light and flashes of orange and red.

Size affects the price strongly. Fine Mandarin color in stones over a few carats is rare, and the price per carat climbs as stones get bigger.

Where spessartite comes from

The best known sources are Namibia and Nigeria, famous for Mandarin garnet. Spessartite also comes from Tanzania, Mozambique, Madagascar, Sri Lanka, Brazil, Pakistan and China, with stones from different places showing slightly different shades of orange. Much of the world’s rough passes through the busy gem trade in Bangkok and Chanthaburi to be cut and sold. If you want to know the origin of a particular stone, ask us: we offer certified stones, and an uncertified stone can be sent to a gem lab for a report at extra cost.

See spessartite at our shop in Bangkok

A well cut spessartite is one of the brightest colored stones there is, and its flashes of orange and red only really show when the stone moves in your hand. When you make your booking, name spessartite and we will gather stones from tangerine and reddish orange through to warm cinnamon so you can compare them.

Walk in any time we are open, or book ahead so Yaron is there to help with the stone, the design and the metal, from 925 silver and gold plating to solid 9K, 14K or 18K gold.

A clean, bright orange spessartite is uncommon, so you may want to secure one you like as a loose stone. No jewelry order is required, and we would be delighted to make a ring or pendant around it.

Not in Bangkok? Message us and we will send photos and prices of the spessartite we have.

Spessartite questions we get

Is your spessartite natural?

Yes. Every gemstone we set is natural, spessartite included, and spessartite is almost never treated. If a stone has had any treatment we tell you before you order. We are a member of the Thai Gem and Jewelry Traders Association.

What is Mandarin garnet?

Mandarin garnet is the trade name for spessartite with a vivid, pure orange color. It was first used for stones from Namibia and is also used for bright orange stones from Nigeria.

Is spessartite the same as spessartine?

Yes. They are two spellings of the same orange garnet. Mineralogists usually write spessartine, and many jewelers write spessartite.

Is spessartite good for an everyday ring?

Yes. It is 7 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale and has no cleavage, so it handles daily wear well. Take it off for the gym and heavy work to protect the stone and the setting.

How much does spessartite jewelry cost?

It depends on the quality and carat of the stone you choose, and on the metal. We give you the price before anything is made.

Can I buy just the stone?

Yes. Spessartite is sold loose here, without any need for a setting. If you decide to wear it, we will happily set it for you now or at a later date.

How long does a spessartite piece take?

7 to 10 working days from your order, because the stones are already here in our shop, then 1 to 3 working days for delivery inside Thailand. We also ship abroad by FedEx.

Every spessartite piece is made to order by our team in Bangkok in 925 sterling silver or solid gold, with a 3-year warranty, free maintenance and free shipping across Thailand.