Sphene Jewelry in Bangkok

Sphene is the stone gem lovers show each other when they want to talk about fire. Turn a good one under a lamp and it breaks the light into flashes of red, orange, green and blue, more than a diamond does. The body color is usually a warm yellow, honey or a fresh lime green, so the rainbow sparks dance over a golden or green stone. It is soft, which makes it a stone for pendants and earrings more than rings, and it is not often seen in jewelry shops. We set natural sphene in 925 sterling silver and solid gold at our studio on Sukhumvit 71, Bangkok.

This page covers what sphene is, where its fire comes from, the names sphene and titanite, how it compares with other green and yellow stones, how to wear and care for it, what makes a good stone, where it comes from, how to see the stones at our shop, and how to order in Bangkok or anywhere in Thailand.

What sphene is

Sphene is a calcium titanium silicate. Mineralogists call it titanite, because of the titanium in it, while the gem trade still mostly uses the older name sphene. That name comes from the Greek word for a wedge, after the flat, wedge-shaped crystals it often forms.

Its colors run from yellow and greenish yellow to brown, orange and a bright green. The most vivid green stones contain a trace of chromium and are sold as chrome sphene. Most sphene is small. Clean stones of a few carats are uncommon, and large clean stones are rare.

Sphene is usually not treated at all. A small amount of brown material is sometimes heated to turn it orange or reddish. Every stone we set is natural, sphene included, and if a stone has had any treatment we tell you before you order.

Sphene facts at a glance

• Family: titanite, a calcium titanium silicate
• Color: yellow, honey, brown, orange and green, with strong rainbow fire
• Hardness: 5 to 5.5 on the Mohs scale
• Treatment: usually untreated; some brown stones are heated to orange
• Best for: pendants and earrings; rings only in a protective setting and with care
• Care: warm soapy water and a soft cloth; no ultrasonic or steam cleaners
• Price: depends on the quality and carat you choose; we quote before you order

Where the fire comes from

When white light enters a gem, the stone bends each color by a slightly different amount and spreads them apart. Gemologists call this dispersion, and you see it as fire, the small flashes of spectral color that move as the stone moves. Diamond is famous for it. Sphene has even stronger dispersion than diamond, one of the highest of any gem used in jewelry.

Sphene is also strongly doubly refractive. Under a loupe, the facets at the back of the stone look doubled, which gives the inside of a sphene a soft, slightly busy look and adds to the play of light. It also shows different colors in different directions, so one stone can flash yellow, green and brownish orange as you turn it.

The fire shows best in lighter stones. In a very dark sphene the body color swallows much of it, which is why a bright yellow or light green stone often looks more lively than a deep one.

Sphene and other green and yellow stones

Diamond has less fire than sphene but is far harder. A sphene gives you more color and more rainbow flashes in a stone that needs much gentler handling.

Peridot is a fresh olive to lime green. Some green sphene looks similar in color, but peridot has little fire, and sphene sparkles with flashes of other colors.

Chrysoberyl comes in similar yellows and greens and is much harder, at 8.5. If you want a yellow green stone for a ring you wear every day, chrysoberyl is the practical choice, and sphene is the one with the fire.

Tsavorite is a vivid green garnet with good brilliance. Chrome sphene can reach a similar green, with more fire and less hardness.

How to wear and care for sphene

At 5 to 5.5 on the Mohs scale, sphene is softer than glass and quartz, and it is somewhat brittle. Ordinary dust contains quartz, so over time even wiping a sphene can dull its surface if it is worn on the hands. That is why we recommend sphene for pendants and earrings, which are protected from knocks and wear. A sphene ring is possible only as an occasional piece, with the stone deep in a protective setting such as a bezel, and taken off for anything with your hands.

Clean it gently in warm soapy water with a soft cloth, then rinse and dry. Never use ultrasonic or steam cleaners, avoid sudden heat, and keep it away from perfume, hair spray and household chemicals. Store it separately so other stones do not scratch it. If it ever needs a polish or a check of the setting, bring it to our shop. Maintenance is free on jewelry we made.

What makes a good sphene

Fire is the reason to buy sphene. Look at the stone under a single light, like a lamp or sunlight, and see how many colored flashes it throws as it moves.

Color is a matter of taste. Bright yellow, lime and chrome green stones are the most wanted. Brown and orange stones can be beautiful and are often more affordable.

Clarity matters because of the doubling inside. Small inclusions are common, and an eye clean sphene is worth paying more for.

Cut should bring out the fire. Most sphene is cut as ovals, cushions and rounds with many facets. Check that the stone is evenly bright, without dull, dark areas.

Where sphene comes from

Much of the gem sphene on the market today comes from Madagascar. It is also found in Brazil, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Myanmar, Mexico and Russia. If you want to know the origin of a particular stone, ask us: we offer certified stones, and an uncertified stone can be sent to a gem lab for a report at extra cost.

See sphene at our shop in Bangkok

Sphene’s fire is hard to catch in a photo, and it changes completely with the light, so it really is a stone to see in person. If you tell us ahead that sphene is the stone, we will have several ready in different colors, and you can look at them under the shop lights and by the window.

Walk in any time we are open, or book ahead so Yaron is there to help with the stone, the design and the metal, from 925 silver and gold plating to solid 9K, 14K or 18K gold.

Sphene is a collector’s favorite, and some customers buy one just to own it. You can buy a sphene as a loose stone with no jewelry order needed, and if you later want a pendant or a pair of earrings, we will set it for you.

Not in Bangkok? Message us and we will send photos and prices of the sphene we have.

Sphene questions we get

Is your sphene natural?

Yes. Every gemstone we set is natural, sphene included, and sphene is usually not treated. A small amount of brown sphene is heated to turn it orange, and if a stone has been treated we tell you before you order. We are a member of the Thai Gem and Jewelry Traders Association.

Is sphene the same as titanite?

Yes. Titanite is the mineral name and sphene is the older name still used for the gem. They are the same stone.

Does sphene really have more fire than diamond?

Yes. Sphene splits light into colors more strongly than diamond, so a well cut, light colored sphene shows a lot of rainbow flashes. Diamond is much harder, though.

Can I wear a sphene ring every day?

We do not recommend it. Sphene is 5 to 5.5 on the Mohs scale and somewhat brittle, so daily wear on the hand will scratch and chip it. Pendants and earrings are the best way to wear sphene, and a ring should be an occasional piece in a protective setting.

How much does sphene jewelry cost?

It depends on the quality and carat of the stone you choose, and on the metal. We give you the price before anything is made.

Can I buy just the stone?

Yes. A sphene can be bought by itself, without a setting. If you want it made into a pendant or earrings, now or later, we are happy to set it.

How long does a sphene piece take?

7 to 10 working days from your order, because the stones are already here in our shop, then 1 to 3 working days for delivery inside Thailand. We also ship abroad by FedEx.

Every sphene piece is made to order by our team in Bangkok in 925 sterling silver or solid gold, with a 3-year warranty, free maintenance and free shipping across Thailand.